Cultural Identity 101: What's a gringa, anyway?

Before talking about all of the beautiful sites and exotic animals in the GALAPAGOS, I first want to share an important this-is-the-point-of-studying-abroad experience. So if you'd really just like to see pictures of giant turtles and sea lions, scroll down! But hopefully the following will be at least somewhat worthwhile.

Last week I attended a small-group session with my study abroad program. The purpose of the session was to consider cultural identity in the context of globalization, through the medium of acting. Our program coordinator prompted us to "act out" different cultural identities through a series of poses or motions. As if the concept of cultural identity isn't ambiguous enough, imagine trying to represent "Indigenous amazonian woman" or "American student" through a single pose. To reduce cultural identity to a mere few motions requires the use of generalizations and archetypes, such as representing the busy, time-conscious American businessman by looking at an imaginary watch and clutching and imaginary briefcase; and by conveying Ecuadorian hospitality by standing with your arms open amicably. One of the final activities was to convey our own cultural identity through three poses or motions. During the five minutes we were allowed to prepare, we sat silently, somewhat confused. Honestly, I had never contemplated my own cultural identity before that afternoon, let alone the terminology. What does it mean to be a gringa, anyway? I was stumped.

American culture is often associated with globalization, or at least with Westernization. In Ecuador, the Northern influence materializes through brands of clothing (I can't how many knock-off Hollister t-shirts I've seen), movies and media, food  and beverage products, restaurants,  and even language ("man", "full", and "brother" are commonly used here, with their English meanings.) This Northern influence seems so expansive and pervasive...yet so remarkably undefined. In those five minutes of brain-storming, I came up with nothing more than a few vague identities: studious and hard-working; time-conscious and fast-paced; and independent. Are these identities really unique to the United States, or could they generally apply to dozens of cultures? I don't mean to discount any of the significant freedoms and liberties we enjoy in the United States; indeed, I have come to appreciate my independence (especially as a female) more than ever before. And perhaps determining regional cultural identities within the U.S. would be easier than establishing cultural identities that apply across the board. Still, I realized that my "gringa" identity, which feels so ingrained when I get annoyed at Ecuadorians walking slowly on the busy street, has foundations so ambiguous that I cannot even represent my own cultural identity through three simple motions.

As I said above, being in Ecuador has made me appreciate my independence, especially as a female. Before getting to Ecuador, I read a little about the "machista" culture: that is, a slight proclivity towards a patriarchal society. I expected it'd be nothing worse than an occasional catcall. However, this aspect of Ecuadorian culture has become one of my biggest frustrations and difficulties with living here, mostly because women are powerless in this regard. Any reaction to a catcall, beep, or all too-friendly greeting out of a car window is considered a flirtatious response -- even a profanity or nasty look. Denied the option of refusing the unwelcome gesture, we are left to walk quickly, with eyes cast downward. Friends have talked about how they sit squished up against the bus window to avoid contact with a male passenger's hand, which has no reason to cross halfway onto the next seat. I don't feel comfortable wearing knee-length skirts or dresses here, even with tights. While the men might think their comments are flattering, they aren't. The gesture was made merely on the grounds that I have two X chromosomes  -- not for my thoughts, ideas, or actions as a person. These one-way interactions make me feel objectified and powerless. Never in the U.S. did I actually realize the extent of my independence as a woman. I never fought for these rights; this model was established by generations of women before me, and I gratefully assume it. So to the generations of feminists, kudos!

(*Disclaimer: I should mention that obviously not all men act in this way; as I reject being objectified on the basis of my gender, I don't mean to generalize Ecuadorian men on the basis of their gender.)

Enough with all of this reflecting...time for the fun stuff! During the last week of October, I visited a biologist's ultimate playground -- THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS! Between hiking over lava fields and waking up to a perfect ocean view, it was easily one of the coolest vacations ever. On my 21st birthday, I snorkeled with sea lions, giant sea turtles, and what seemed to be the entire cast of Finding Nemo -- including a shark! Ecuador has done an remarkable job of preserving this national (and global) treasure. As this post is getting long enough, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves!

In the weeks following the Galapagos, I visited the beautiful colonial city of Cuenca, ran the Nike We Run Quito 10k, and hiked around a volcanic-crater lake called Quilotoa. While in Cuenca, the city celebrated its annual festival, and we even saw the country's president in a parade! Because of its smaller size, impressive architecture, and quaint streets, I absolutely loved Cuenca. As for the 10k, the altitude put me in place! Despite running four to five days a week, managing an 8-minute mile pace was difficult. Still, the Nike 10k was a blast and the most organized race I've ever been part of - there were 8,000 runners in total!

It's hard to believe that I have less than one month left in Ecuador! In these last few weeks, my program has a trip to the Amazon rain forest, our own Thanksgiving Day celebration, and a possible rafting trip. Ready or not, I'll be boarding the plane home before I know it! Now enough with writing, time for pictures!

Marine iguana

Cliff-jumping 

Bay on the Island of Santa Cruz

Land tortoise...at least 80 years old!

The view outside our hostel...seriously.

10-mile hike over lava fields

lava field

crab

Sea lions

Blue-footed boobie family!

Sea lion swimming (right)

Cathedral in Cuenca

View of Cuenca

Presidential parade in Cuenca

Quilotoa, a volcanic crater lake

Before the race

We ran Quito!

Studying, abroad.

During my first two years of college, everyone I talked to described study abroad as the most life-changing, incredible, earth-shattering experience. I boarded the plane for Ecuador with visions of crawling through the Amazon rain forest, spotting seals on the white sandy beaches of the Galapagos, eating exotic fruits with every meal, and perfecting my Spanish with dozens of new Ecuadorian friends. What I've found, as I've said before, is that not every day or even every weekend involves exciting excursions to remote towns or ancient ruins. Life here is just that -- life. While this realization seems underwhelming at first, I think it's consistent with the purpose of studying abroad. I am a student, in another country. I have homework, exams, and annoying ecology projects that require counting birds at six in the morning. With the exception of last weekend, I've stayed in Quito for all of the last month. In contrast, I see pictures of friends studying abroad in Europe: France one weekend, Italy the next, Germany after that. A seemingly constant whirlwind of traveling and site-seeing, so different from my experience.  I don't mean to discount their study abroad experiences in the slightest; when in Europe, you should take full advantage of such convenient travel opportunities! But studying abroad in Ecuador, and perhaps in Latin America as a whole, is so different. We are participants in the hustle and bustle of the city, confronted daily with the stark contrast between our wealthy classmates and the men attempting to make a living by selling 25 cent caramels on the bus. I think the observation that life here is not all that different from life at home speaks to the universal human experience. Regardless of geography, culture, class, gender, or age, some aspects of the human experience are shared. We all deal with stress, set goals, experience disappointment, rejoice in the love of family of friends, and delight in the little things, like getting a seat on the bus. I think one of the most fundamental parts of studying abroad, besides observing and appreciating the uniqueness of another culture, is recognizing the often surprising similarities to your own culture. In this regard, the life-is-life observation is not underwhelming but instead is critical. 

Reflecting on the similarities between life here and at home is especially relevant when considering the Northern influence on Latin American history. Thanks to globalization and the spreading of "American" culture, some of the hallmark comforts of home are just a few city blocks or mouse clicks away -- Facebook, Coca-Cola products, Subway, last night's episode of the Colbert Report, even Snyder's of Hanover pretzels! (Yes, I have actually seen them in the grocery store.) I can't decide if the convenience and presence of these American trademarks removes or adds authenticity to the experience of living in Ecuador. On one hand, globalization slowly stifles the local culture, erasing uniquely colorful beliefs and customs. On the other hand, globalization – good or bad -- is the undeniable reality of today’s world. No culture exists in a vacuum, and to ignore the effects of globalization would result in an inauthentic perception of current Ecuadorian culture. Either way, the contrast between American fast-food chains and street stands serving up fresh mote, choclo, and platanos provides curious insight into the evolution of culture. 

Even though I've stayed in Quito for almost all of October, the last few weeks have not been without their share of fun and new experiences. In regards to school, I am really enjoying my jewelry and weaving classes, and have finished my first projects in each! Some fellow BCA runners and I have signed up for the Nike 10k in November, called We Run Quito. There are similar races in 32 cities internationally, and the Quito edition has 8,000 runners! Outside of school, I've been keeping up with the presidential debates, baking peanut butter nutella cookies, and watching all of the Harry Potter movies. (Who knew I'd have to go to Ecuador to catch up on this seemingly irreplaceable hallmark of our generation.) Last weekend, I went to Mindo, a small town known for its waterfalls, rafting, and butterflies. Between visiting a butterfly reserve and dining at what may have been a hippie commune, it was definitely a relaxing day outside of the city. This post is turning into a novel so I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. : ) Until next time, que les vaya bien!

La Vida Quiteña

After four weeks of classes, I have definitely gotten into the swing of living in Quito. Whereas the first month was packed with activities and trips, this last month has been rather low-key, including taking the bus to and from school, going to class, and doing homework. As some of my friends and I have realized, studying abroad is like ordinary life -- not everyday is exciting, adventurous, and life-changing. While a nutella croissant certainly brightens any day, living in Quito is not without its bad days and frustrations. Packed buses and excessive traffic, annoying cat calls on the street, and failed attempts at catching a taxi are just a few of the daily challenges. Though daily life may lack the excitement of hiking through the rain forest and surveying ancient ruins, it's everyday observations that acquaint us with the reality of the culture and its people. Often, the reality isn't pretty. I've seen 8-year-olds selling candy on the street, obviously not in school. The division between the rich and poor is stark, to say the least, and crime seems undeniably linked to poverty. Toilet paper is put in the trash can here instead of the toilet (as is common in much of Latin America) because the city lacks the proper water treatment facilities to degrade it, and internet service is almost unattainable in the evening due to inability to meet the demand. However, the glimpses out the dusty windows of the bus also reveal the beautiful reality of Ecuador: the stunning scenery, perfect weather, ethnic diversity of its people, and steadfast commitment to family. I'm really living in a Latin American city, alongside 2.5 million people, experiencing the highs and lows of day-to-day life.

That being said, the last few weeks were not completely adventure-less! Two weeks ago, some friends and I bought scalped tickets, donned $6 jerseys (we negotiated the price down from $8), and packed into the futbol (aka soccer) stadium with about 40,000 very devout fans for a game between Ecuador and Bolivia. You could feel the excitement in the city during the day leading up to the game. Everyone was wearing an Ecuador jersey - bus drivers, students, even the woman selling ice cream. The feeling of national unity was electrifying. And the game did not disappoint! Ecuador won, 1-0. After the goal, the crowd erupted into chants and showers of beer. We left the game feeling a little bit more Quiteño. 

Ecuafans!

Beautiful day for futbol

Toilet paper the stadium to show support for the
home team? In Ecuador, yes.

Last weekend, I traveled to Baños with Kate and Tori, two fellow Juniatians. Baños is a small town about 3 hours away famous for its natural hotsprings heated by the geothermal waters of the volcano Tangurahua. We arrived Saturday afternoon, and after checking into our hotel, spent a good two hours at a cute cafe called Casa Hood. I ordered a Thai dish, which was a pleasant change from the plain white rice my family eats everyday. After lunch, we hiked up a trail to a vista -- the view was gorgeous! In the evening, we got back massages and enjoyed another leisurely meal at yet another cute cafe. At night, we took a "chiva" (party truck/bus) up to the top of the mountains. With its flashing lights and random club music, the chiva was quite Ecua. We enjoyed the view of the city lights and a cup of cinnamon tea at the top of the mountain. 

Streets of Baños

Grilled Cuy = guinea pig. No, I didn't try it (yet.)

Cathedral in Baños

Ecuador. 

View from the lookout

The next day, we visited the baños for which the town is named -- unfortunately, they were little more than heated swimming pools packed with people, even at 7am. I was in a particularly gringa, I-need-my-space mindset and consequently was somewhat annoyed by the people who kept bumping into us in the pool -- but such is the culture, and it made me aware of my ethnocentrism in situations as simple as a crowded swimming pool. Before heading back to Quito, we visited Casa Hood yet again -- its selection of international dishes definitely warrants multiple visits!

Back in Quito, it was a pretty quiet week. For my ecology class, I had to meet at a park at 5:45am on both Friday and Saturday to count birds, which was less than exciting. On Saturday, Kate, Tori, and I finally satisfied a mac n' cheese craving (Kraft is $2.50 a box here since it's imported from the U.S.), and on Sunday, Kate and I found a quaint coffee shop in downtown Quito where we worked on homework all afternoon...and by homework, I mean my weaving project. Not quite organic chemistry like at Juniata...

I could get used to this kind of homework.

That's it for now! This weekend, I'm going on a night tour of the historical center and a tour of southern Quito, which is apparently quite different from the North. Until then, que les vaya bien!

Waterfalls, Compost, and the First day of School

The last few weeks have been filled with all things new, from food and traveling to the start of school! A few weekends ago, my extended family took two day trips: One to a country club of sorts for doctors, and another to a waterfall and swimming hole in San Miguel de los Bancos. Both days were quite fun, and it was great spending time with them. On the way home from the waterfall, we stopped at a small mom & pop restaurant for lunch. I ordered chicken soup, which seemed benign enough. Much to my surprise, the first spoonful uncovered una pata -- aka, a chicken foot. My host family laughed at my reaction, and assured me that it was muy rico, or very good. Needless to say, I left the pata in the bowl. The second spoonful uncovered yet another surprise: a dark, spongy piece of meat -- a chicken kidney. I did try that at my family's prompting, and it really wasn't terrible except for the texture. During this weekend, my host sisters also took me to the Calle Ronda in the historical center, a pretty, cobblestone street packed with people and street food on Friday nights. There, I tried a dessert that was a strange mix between ice cream and icing -- a little too sweet, even for me! Still on the list of foods to try in Ecuador are Cuy (Guinea pig) and tripa (intestines), both of which are excellent according to my family.

Strange icing stuff disguised as ice cream. 

Doctors' country club

When required to wear a swim cap, pretend you are a
member of a synchronized swim team!

Most sister sister, Sofie, and nephew, Julian.

The waterfall! 

After finishing up the pre-semester course, we were off to Rio Muchacho -- an organic farm located just a few miles from the coastal town of Canoa. We boarded a night bus and arrived in Canoa bright and early - at 6am - on Wednesday. What do you do when you arrive at a beach that early? Go running, of course! My fellow JC teammate, Kate; and Megan, who runs for Elizabethtown College; and I got in a nice run along the shore, complete with finding sand dollars and a blue crab.

Juniata and Elizabethtown teams, unite!

Blue crab - Cangrejo azul

The beach at Canoa

We spent the rest of the day at the beach, where we met two Germans who were traveling around South America for a few weeks. Between an amusing mix of English, Spanish, and German, we had a great discussion over lunch about politics, religion, and stereotypes about our respective countries. They were surprisingly well-informed about American politics, (asked us what we thought about Romney; thought that Palin and Bachmann were laughable) and were perplexed by the influence of religion in our elections, considering that religious freedom is one of the most cherished and foundational tenets of our country. Regarding stereotypes towards Americans, they had previously gathered that Americans generally seem uninterested in being intellectual. However, they were happily surprised to find that we defied this stereotype, and assured us that they would tell their friends in Germany about the group of American 20-somethings who were in fact quite the contrary.

At the end of the day, we climbed into the back of a pick-up truck to drive to the Rio Muchacho farm. The farm's owners, Dario and Nicola, established Rio Muchacho about 30 years with the goal of running a nearly self-sustainable, entirely organic farm while reforesting land lost to slash-and-burn clearing. In the last three decades, they've done just that: The farm uses only organic farming methods, produces less than 2lbs of inorganic trash per week, and recycles almost everything through composting toilets and composting machines (aka, pigs and guinea pigs.) Organic farming classes are available at the farm, and hundreds of tourists, volunteers, and special interest groups pass through Rio Muchacho annually. This helps Dario and Nicola fulfill a secondary goal of educating the public about environmental sustainability and each individual's impact on the environment. Rio Muchacho has even opened an elementary school that aims to educate local children about organic farming practices and show them that farming can sustain them and their families. We visited the school during "chores" time, where we found 8-10 year old boys chopping down weeds with machetes....not exactly your typical American elementary school!

The Rio Muchacho School...time for chores!

While I could go on and on about the several documentaries we watched and Dario's fascinating lecture about planting and harvesting in harmony with lunar cycles, the three days at Rio Muchacho prompted me to think about my responsibilities as a consumer and as a future scientist. The last few weeks, I've been working through Thomas Friedman's "Hot, Flat, and Crowded," which explores the convergence of energy shortages and their relationship to political power; booming human populations; and globalization. Both Rio Muchacho and Friedman's book have provoked curiosity about new and different branches of biological research, specifically applied and environmental microbiology in the context of these very real environmental, energy, and sustainability questions. Regardless of what politicians and scientists say on either side of the "climate change" debate, the human population and its need for resources are growing nearly exponentially. Quite simply, we need to be intentional and innovative about finding sustainable ways to support the millions who are joining the middle class while conserving the resources we have. And I want to find ways to do this with microbes!

Okay, enough of the population sustainability/energy/environment rant. Since our days at Rio Muchacho were packed, here's just a quick list of the highlights: Making chocolate with only cocoa beans, sugar cane, and milk; riding horses to a monkey forest (we didn't actually find any monkeys); hiking to perhaps the coolest tree ever; making jewelry from tagua (a nut) and bowls from mate (a fruit); and eating -- the food at Rio Muchacho was incredible! Homemade bread, granola, yuca cakes, fresh fruit from the farm, the best soups I've ever had, and homegrown coffee. So good. Here are just a few pictures:

Pathway

Bananas

Pinneaple

Cocoa

Best lunch ever.

Super cool tree!

Horses (ponies by US standards)

Homemade chocolate (photo cred goes to Bridget)

Waterfall!

After the relaxing days at Rio Muchacho, we returned to Quito for the start of classes. I've been in school for almost two weeks now, and it's so different from Juniata. I really miss living at school (my commute is about half an hour by bus) and knowing almost everyone in my classes. At least 4,000-5,000 students pass through USFQ's tiny campus everyday! As far as classes go, I'm taking an Ecology class, two art classes to fulfill requirements at Juniata (weaving and jewelry), two Spanish classes (Adv. Grammar, Language & Cinema), and Intro. to Environmental Engineering. So far, I'm enjoying them!

While this post has turned into a bit of novel, I have one more cool update -- this week, I'm meeting with one of the environmental engineering professors to talk about doing research at USFQ. She's currently starting a project investigating the effectiveness of microbes in remediating soils contaminated with petroleum, a significant environmental problem in Ecuador. As if this project doesn't already sound fascinating because of its combination of microbiology and environmental remediation, this particular professor studied at JUNIATA for a semester in 1999! Small world!

That's it for now! Que les vaya bien : )